Traditional Clothing and Jewelry of Azad Kashmir – A Legacy Woven in Fabric and Faith

The Elegance of Identity

Azad Kashmir, located in the northern valleys of Pakistan, is a land where tradition flows as naturally as its rivers. Among the most striking expressions of this heritage is its traditional clothing and jewelry, which embody the warmth, artistry and spirit of its people.

From the graceful pheran and poots to intricately crafted silver jewelry, every thread and ornament carries a story — of history, community and pride. These garments are not merely attire; they are symbols of faith, unity and resilience, passed down through generations.

“When a Kashmiri wears a pheran, they don’t just wear cloth — they wear centuries of identity,” says Abdul Basit, Trustee of Kashmir Welfare Foundation.

🧣 The Pheran – A Timeless Garment

Comfort, Craft, and Culture

The pheran is perhaps the most iconic garment of Azad Kashmir — a loose, flowing gown worn by both men and women. Traditionally made of wool or cotton, it provides comfort and warmth during the region’s cold winters. The design is modest, elegant and practical, with long sleeves and a relaxed silhouette that reflects the simplicity and dignity of Kashmiri life.

In the mountain towns of Neelum Valley and Bagh, the pheran is often paired with poots — loose-fitting trousers of matching fabric — creating an ensemble that balances form and function. The attire allows easy movement, warmth, and grace, ideal for both daily work and festive gatherings.

Embroidery and Symbolism

The embroidery on a pheran tells stories without words. Delicate tilla work (gold or silver thread embroidery) and aari work (chain stitching) are common, depicting floral and geometric motifs inspired by nature.

Common patterns include:

• Chinar leaves, symbolising endurance and rootedness
• Lotus flowers, representing purity
• Vines and birds, reflecting harmony between humans and nature

These motifs serve not only decorative purposes but also spiritual ones — reminders of beauty, patience and the blessings of creation.

“Every thread in a pheran carries the prayers of the artisan,” explains Abdul Basit, Trustee of Kashmir Welfare Foundation. “It is stitched with gratitude and worn with dignity.”

👕 The Pheran for Men – Simplicity with Strength

While women’s pherans are adorned with embroidery and bright colours, men’s pherans tend to be simpler — usually in earth tones or greys, symbolising humility and practicality.

Men pair their pheran with a traditional cap called the Karakul or Kashmiri Topi, and during winter, many wear a Pashmina shawl draped over their shoulders.

Underneath the pheran, they carry a small earthen or metallic pot known as a kangri, filled with burning coal embers. It serves as a personal heater, tucked beneath the garment for warmth during freezing months — a simple yet ingenious example of Kashmiri adaptation to nature.

👘 The Pheran for Women – Grace and Expression

For women, the pheran is not only clothing but a statement of identity and artistry. The women’s pherans are longer, more elaborately embroidered, and often dyed in vibrant shades of crimson, emerald green, or sapphire blue.

These colours are chosen deliberately — red for joy, green for faith, blue for peace. On weddings and festivals, pherans may feature zari borders, mirror work, or hand-sewn pearls, transforming them into works of wearable art.

Accompanying the pheran, women wear headscarves (dupatta) or embroidered Kasaba caps adorned with coins and beads — reflecting the fusion of beauty, faith and tradition.

The Fading Warmth of the Pheron

It was once a common sight across Kashmir during the cold, snowy days. The pheron was more than just clothing. It was comfort, warmth, and identity. Elders often recall how people would take pride in their garments. They even had friendly competitions to see who could make the thickest and most insulating pheron.

The pheron was perfectly suited to the harsh winters of Kashmir. Made from heavy wool and lined with cotton, it kept people warm as they gathered around the kangri (clay fire pot) inside their homes. It symbolised togetherness, especially in the mountain villages where the cold could last for months.

But as global temperatures rise, Kashmir’s winters are changing. Snowfall is becoming lighter and shorter. The need for such heavy garments is slowly disappearing. This quiet loss reminds us that climate change affects more than nature. It also touches culture, tradition, and the way people once lived in harmony with the cold.

👔 Salwar Kameez: Grace in Simplicity

The Salwar Kameez is the most common and versatile outfit in Azad Kashmir. It reflects comfort, modesty, and elegance. Influenced by the broader Indo-Pak region, it has become a symbol of Kashmiri identity. Both men and women wear it daily for work, gatherings, and family life. It allows easy movement while keeping a sense of tradition and respect.

The salwar is a loose trouser that gathers at the ankles. It is paired with the kameez, a long tunic that flows softly over the body. In summer, light cotton or linen fabrics keep people cool in the warm valley air. During winter, the heavier pheron takes its place, made from wool or thick blends for warmth. Many still wear the salwar kameez beneath shawls or coats, showing how adaptable it is throughout the year.

Over time, embroidery, lacework, and local patterns have added beauty to this simple attire. Every stitch tells a story of heritage and care. The salwar kameez shows that Kashmiri elegance lies in modesty, balance, and purpose. It remains a living symbol of culture that continues to unite generations.

🌿 Symbolism and Significance

The pheran holds a deep cultural meaning beyond its practicality. It represents:

• Unity – worn by both men and women across all social classes
• Modesty and respect, reflecting Islamic values
• Continuity – linking generations through a common cultural identity

Across villages and cities, rich and poor alike wear the pheran — a rare example of attire that transcends class and status.

“The pheran equalises everyone,” says Zafer Iqbal, Volunteer of Kashmir Welfare. “It reminds us that culture is not about division, but about connection.”

In a rapidly modernising world, the pheran remains a symbol of Kashmiri pride — a garment that speaks softly of belonging.

💎 Traditional Jewelry – Adornments of Elegance

A Heritage in Silver and Stone

No traditional Kashmiri attire is complete without its jewelry, an art form that combines craftsmanship with spiritual symbolism. Kashmiri jewelry is known for its delicate designs, typically handcrafted in silver, gold, or semi-precious stones such as turquoise, coral and amber.

Women in Azad Kashmir often adorn themselves with:

• Dejharoo – twin pendant earrings that hang from both ears, symbolising marriage and prosperity
• Nath (nose ring) – worn during weddings and festivals, representing purity and grace
• Tikka – a forehead ornament that signifies dignity
• Choker necklaces and anklets, often passed down through generations as family heirlooms

Each piece of jewelry tells a personal and cultural story — connecting a woman to her ancestors and to her community.

Jewelry for Men – Subtle Symbols of Status

Historically, Kashmiri men also wore ornaments such as silver rings, brooches, or inscribed amulets symbolising protection and faith. Today, these are seen mainly during traditional events or among elders in rural areas, reflecting continuity of heritage.

🧵 The Artisan’s Craft – Threads of Livelihood

The artisans who create pherans, shawls, and jewelry are custodians of Azad Kashmir’s cultural memory. Their hands keep alive techniques that have existed for hundreds of years — passed through families like sacred knowledge.

However, these artisans often struggle economically due to limited markets and modern competition. Supporting their work means preserving both heritage and livelihoods.

Kashmir Welfare Foundation works alongside local craft cooperatives to:

• Train young artisans in traditional embroidery and jewelry-making
• Create fair trade pathways for local products
• Promote eco-friendly and ethical production methods
• Provide financial aid to families dependent on craft work

“When we support a craftsperson,” says Abdul Basit, “we keep a thousand stories alive — stories of faith, patience and artistry.”

🌸 Cultural and Religious Symbolism

Traditional Kashmiri attire also carries deep religious symbolism. Modesty, dignity, and gratitude are woven into the very fabric of these garments. The pheran’s loose form represents humility before Allah, while the jewelry — often inscribed with verses or symbols — reminds the wearer of divine protection.

During festivals like Eid ul Fitr, Eid ul Adha, and Eid Milad un Nabi, families dress in their finest traditional clothes, honouring the connection between cultural beauty and spiritual joy.

💚 Preserving the Cultural Heritage of Azad Kashmir

To safeguard this heritage, ongoing education and promotion are vital. Schools, museums, and NGOs are working to document designs, embroidery patterns, and oral histories linked to Kashmiri attire.

The Kashmir Welfare Foundation supports initiatives that connect cultural preservation with community welfare — ensuring artisans receive fair wages, training, and recognition.

Your contribution helps to:

• Support artisan families across Azad Kashmir
• Fund training for women in embroidery and jewelry-making
• Promote local products through cultural exhibitions
• Protect heritage as part of sustainable community development

👉 Donate Now to Support Artisans and Preserve Heritage

🌿 Add Gift Aid to increase your donation by 25% at no extra cost.

Threads that Bind a Nation

The traditional clothing and jewelry of Azad Kashmir are not relics of the past — they are living expressions of identity and faith. The pheran, poots, and ornate silver jewelry together form a portrait of a people proud of their heritage and united by their culture.

These garments are woven not only from wool and silk but also from memory, endurance and hope. Every stitch connects one generation to the next — keeping alive the timeless essence of Kashmiri grace.

By celebrating, wearing, and supporting these traditions, we honour the creativity and resilience of a people whose culture continues to inspire warmth in the coldest of mountains.

“Our clothes are our language,” says Parveen Kausar. “They tell the world who we are — proud, humble, and unbroken.”

Related Articles You May Like